Whether or not you wash your hair before dying it can affect your results. Are you doing it the right way? We’re breaking it all down ahead.

Whether you go from blonde to brunette, brunette to blonde, or anything in-between, coloring your hair is a big commitment. Daily maintenance and routine touch-ups are a must, but the way you prep your hair before you color it is just as important. So is it better to dye clean or dirty hair? A good rule of thumb is to not wash the day of coloring, but when should you wash your hair before dying it? We’re breaking down everything there is to know about the best pre-coloring routine for your strands- including the best products and hair tips to make your color last. And it all starts below.

Washing your hair strips your strands and your scalp of their much-needed natural oils. These oils keep your hair moisturized and protected, so washing them out right before you dye, dries out your hair and makes it more susceptible to damage or over-deposit of the color. It can also lead to irritation on your scalp, especially if you suffer from dry scalp or dandruff. So it’s best to adjust your wash routine leading up to your appointment. We’ll get into this a little more in a minute. But first, let’s talk about the one exception to this rule.

So your hair shouldn’t be too clean before coloring, but should your hair be dirty when you dye it? Well, while natural oils are ideal, too much product buildup can make it difficult for the color pigments to penetrate the hair’s cuticle. This can cause uneven or less vibrant results. So while normally we wouldn’t recommend using shampoo on the same day as your color appointment, if you have a lot of product in your hair, you should definitely wash it out beforehand.

When it comes to when to wash hair before color or highlights, understanding your hair is the best way to determine when to do it. If your hair is very oily, wash it the day before coloring for best results. If you have normal or dry hair, wash 48-72 hours before you plan to color. The best base to apply hair color are strands with enough natural oil to keep them moisturized and protected, but not so much that it affects the results. If you’re unsure, ask your colorist for their preference so that you come fully prepared for your appointment.

So now that you know it shouldn’t be too clean, you’re likely wondering ‘how dirty should my hair be when I dye it?’ It’s true that some natural oils keep your hair healthy and moisturized, shielding it from external damage caused by harsh chemicals. But overly greasy hair prevents an even distribution of the dye pigment, leading to an uneven look, and in some cases causes the color not to take. Really dirty hair really only works in your favor when using bleach, as the buildup protects the scalp from being agitated from the harsh chemical. Otherwise, fresh hair holds color better with more even results, better gray coverage and longevity. 

The most important thing you can do to keep your color vibrant for longer is to use proper after-color maintenance. That means using color-safe products, getting regular touch-ups and trims, and understanding how to wash to prevent fading. Avoid getting your strands wet, and using heat for two to three days after coloring to allow the pigments to set. When it’s time to wash, remember that water quality and temperature play a large role in how long your color will last. Water that’s too hot opens the hair’s cuticle, releasing color molecules quickly. The intensity of your color also dictates its sensitivity to water temperature. For vibrant or cool tones, keep the water on the cooler side to help keep the color molecules intact. Installing a shower-head filter is another way to help keep your cuticles closed. Use heat to style your colored strands sparingly, no more than twice a week. And anytime you put heat on your hair, be sure to prep first with a heat protection spray.

The products you use on your hair make all the difference in the longevity of your color and the long-term health of your hair. Use only high quality products formulated for colored hair to protect color and add shine, volume and luster. These are our favorite products for colored hair.

MINU Shampoo

A protective shampoo for colored hair keeps your hair healthy and hydrated. The rich foam gently cleanses the hair, protecting the color and keeping it shiny for longer.

NOUNOU Conditioner

A moisturizing conditioner for bleached, permed or relaxed hair. The formula moisturizes and deeply nourishes the hair, making it easy to untangle, and giving it body without weighing it down.

Heart of Glass Instant Bonding Glow

A shine serum enriched with Biacidic bond complex and Illuminating amino concentrate that strengthens and repairs the hair fiber, gives extra-shine, and prolongs the brightness of the color and its intensity.

Alchemic Color Shampoos and Conditioners

A system of shampoos and conditioners with pure pigments that can intensify and brighten both natural and cosmetic color. The 6 non-permanent tones can be mixed together, or used separately to maintain and enhance your color

The Wake-Up Circle

An invigorating hair mask that gives energy and volume to dull hair and restores tone and hydration to the scalp. Ideal recovery treatment after stressful situations like coloring or bleaching.

So should you wash your hair before dying it? The answer depends on your strands. The ideal base for applying color is hair that’s not too clean but not greasy. If your hair is very oily, you should wash the day before coloring, and normal to dry hair types should wash 48-72 hours before. The only time it’s ok to wash right before you color is if you have a ton of product in your strands, as it can impede the color depositing process. Follow our tips to keep your color vibrant and use only high quality products for colored hair. Our color-safe formulas are free of harmful toxins and use natural ingredients to keep your hair healthy and color bright. Not sure where to start? Take our hair quiz to see which products work best for your hair! 

by Jaclyn LaBadia, featured contributor